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Bike Repair Guide
This section is designed to give you the basic information needed to make simple repairs to your bicycle. It will take you through; inspection process, troubleshooting, determining what needs to be repaired, and the steps required to complete the repair. Some discussion will be included about different types of equipment, but it will concentrate on equipment found on low end equipment.
To avoid copyright infringement, this section will be prepared with the expertise of our volunteers, and use pictures of bikes to try to explain the parts, but exploded views of the components will not be available. We will start at the front of the bike, and work our way to the back of the bike.
There are several sections relating to repairs, click on the appropriate one.
If the topics covered did not answer your questions, please contact us and we will try to answer your question and add to this page soon.
Handlebars
Is the fork tightened sufficiently?
Is the fork tightened too much?
Are the bearings properly lubricated?
Is handlebar stem bolt tightened properly?
Is handlebar binder bolt tightened properly?
Are the forks on properly?
Are the handlebar grips in good repair?
Breaks
Are the brake handles properly tightened?
Are the brakes tightened properly?
Are the shifter knobs attached properly?
Is the front reflector in good condition?
Check your front wheel inspect the front tire.
Do the tubes hold air?
Does the wheel spin freely? Are cones too tight?
Does the wheel spin freely? Are bearings binding?
Are the cones too loose?
Does the wheel spin true?
Does the rim rub on the brakes?
Check the wheel reflector.
Check the brakes-there are 4 types
Side Pull Breaks
Is the break securely attached to the frame?
Is the brake tightened properly on the brake stem?
Is the brake properly centered on the wheel?
Does the brake stop the wheel?
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
Do the brakes squeal when applied?
Center Pull brakes
Is the Brake securely attached to the frame?
Does the brake stop the wheel?
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
Cantilever brakes and V brakes
Is the Brake securely attached to the frame?
Does the brake stop the wheel?
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
Check the bottom bracket
Check the handlebars and head tube.
Is the fork tightened sufficiently?
Push up and pull back on the handlebars. Is there any looseness, or movement of the front fork? This would indicate the fork needs to be tightened. Turn the large retaining nut on the top of the head tube counterclockwise to loosen. Turn the cone or adjustable cup to tighten. Finger tighten, and then back off 1/8 of a turn. The handlebars should spin freely.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Is the fork tightened too much?
Spin the handlebars. Do they spin freely? If not, you may need to just loosen the cone or adjustable cup slightly. After loosening the cone, if the handlebars still feel like they don’t spin freely, you will need to repack the bearings. If they spin freely, repeat step A1 to be sure you have not loosened them too much.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Are the bearings properly lubricated?
In step A2, after loosening the cone slightly, you will feel a little roughness as the handlebars turn. To repack the bearings, you first must remove the handlebars. Use a 13MM wrench (or 6mm allen wrench) to turn the stem bolt counter clockwise. When the stem has been loosed so the head is about a half inch over the handlebar, strike the bolt with a rubber mallet to loosen the V-bolt securing the stem. When handlebars turn freely (without the fork moving), remove the handlebars from the Head Tube. Remove the large retainer bolt, and any lock washers. Remove the cone or adjustable cup. (Note: there are several types, some requiring a large wrench and some requiring large slip joint pliers.) Remove the bearings, clean them (WD40 works well), and clean the bearing cup. When old grease has been removed from bearings, each ball should turn freely. If not, replace the bearings. Many bikes use loose bearings rather than a preformed case for them. If this is the case, be careful not to lose the bearings. They typically use 9 bearings if packed loosely, but sometimes more. Not all bikes use the same size bearings for the top and lower cups, so keep track of which set of bearings was used where. Smear a light coat of bearing grease on each of the two bearing cups, and the steerer tube of the fork. Apply a coating of grease over each set of bearings (if using loose bearings apply a thicker bead of grease in the cup, and place the bearings side by side until completing a circle around the outer edge of the cup), and put bearings into the cup. Slide steerer tube of the fork back into the head tube, replace the top bearings, and replace the cone or adjustable cup. Replace the lock washers and reflector brackets, and replace the large retaining nut. Replace the handlebars. Repeat steps A1 and A2 until cones are properly adjusted. Return to Handlebars Questions
Is handlebar stem bolt tightened properly?
Holding the wheel between your legs, turn the handlebars. If the turn without turning the wheel, the stem bolt must be tightened. Using a 13mm wrench (or 6mm allen wrench), tighten in a clockwise direction. Tighten and retest until handlebars will not turn without turning the wheel.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Is handlebar binder bolt tightened properly?
Lean on handlebars, and pull them back, and push them forward. Do they twist in the stem clamp? Tighten the stem clamp binder bolt as required. On some BMX and mountain bikes, the stem clamp is held in place with four bolts. All need to be loosened or tightened to make adjustments to the angle of the handlebars.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Are the forks on properly?
Occasionally the fork gets turned around by an inexperienced person. The wheel axle nuts should be forward of the imaginary line from extending the head tube. If this is not possible, the forks may be bent. Often, the fork can be straightened, but an experienced mechanic should perform this function, so it will not be addressed here.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Are the handlebar grips in good repair?
Are the ends of the grips intact, and protecting the ends of the handlebars? If not, a plug should be inserted into the handlebar end, or the grips should be replaced. If the grips are torn, they should also be replaced. Many grips can be removed by placing a large pair of adjustable wrench around the handlebars, next to the grip. Hit wrench with a rubber mallet firmly, if the grip does not move, then abandon this effort. Insert a small screw driver into the end of the grip, and place a few drops of water, into the space. Work the water around by twisting the grip until the grip turns on the handlebar. Repeat as necessary until successful. Slide the grip off. Dry off the handlebar, and allow the grip to dry if it is to be put back on the handlebar. Use a rubber mallet to push the grip onto the handlebar if unable to do so by hand. Do not use soap or oil to loosen the grips, if they are to be reused, because they often will not grip the handlebar firmly later.
Return to Handlebars Questions
Are the brake handles properly tightened?
Try to turn the brake handles on the handlebar. If they twist, tighten the bolt. On a road bike, the bolt is exposed when pulling on the break lever.
Return to Breaks Questions
Are the brakes tightened properly?
Pull handle as tight a possible. You should be able to slide your thumb between the end of the handle and the handlebar. If not, tighten the brake cable, as you may not be able to stop adequately. The technique for this will be covered with brake adjustments.
Return to Breaks Questions
Are the shifter knobs attached properly?
Follow same steps as for brake handles, and tighten as needed.
Return to Breaks Questions
Is the front reflector in good condition?
All bikes with larger than 16” wheels should have front and back reflectors. They can attach to the bottom of the fork (with the brakes), or off a bracket secured on the top of the forks. If reflector is cracked or missing, it should be replaced. To use the common bracket at the top of the fork, the handlebars and stem must be removed, and the large bolt securing the fork removed. Put the bracket on, with the notch towards the back of the bike, and replace the large bolt, and the handlebars and stem.
Return to Breaks Questions
Check your front wheel and inspect the front tire.
If sidewalls of tire are cracked, or tread is worn away in any spot, replace the tire. Never use a screwdriver to remove, or replace a tire onto a wheel. Use two tire levers designed for the purpose. There is a high risk of damaging the tube otherwise. Insert the tire lever under the lip of the tire, and push the other end down near the spokes, pulling the tire over the edge of the wheel (it is best to do this in a spot about half way around the wheel from the air valve). Latch the tool onto the nearest spoke, using the notch on the end of the tool designed for this purpose. Insert the second tire tool under the lip of the tire about two inches from the first and pull the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel. Slide the second tire tool away from the first, thus pulling more of the tire over the edge of the wheel. Some tires are very tight, and you will need to move two inches further away from the first tire tool, and pull more of the tire over the edge of the wheel and repeat this process until you can slide the tire tool to move the entire tire over the edge of the wheel. Insert the tool under the second edge and pull down, pulling both edges over the edge of the wheel. Put the heel of your hand on this spot, and lean down on the tire until it comes off the wheel. Remove the tube, pump it up slightly, and inspect for holes. Repair them or replace the tube. Put the new tire back on the wheel. You may need to use the tire tool to get the first edge completely on the wheel. It is usually not necessary to use the tire tool to get the second edge on. Apply pressure with your thumbs on the edge of the tire to push it over the edge of the wheel. Take care not to pinch the tube between the tire and the wheel, or you may damage the tube.
Return to Tire Questions
When starting to inspect a bike, air up the tires first. Then before finishing the bike, you will often see a tire losing air, and know to replace it. Remove the tire as in step B1, replace or patch the tube, and replace it back on the bike. It is usually easier to put a little air in the tube just until it takes a round shape to put it in the tire to be able to replace the tire onto the wheel. Be sure the valve stem sticks straight out from the hole on the rim.
Return to Tire Questions
Does the wheel spin freely? Are cones too tight?
If the wheel does not spin freely, it is possible the cones were over tightened. Loosen the axle nut a little. Place a cone wrench on the slot on end of the cone, and loosen the locknut next to it. Now loosen the cone a ¼ turn, and spin the wheel again.
Return to Tire Questions
Does the wheel spin freely? Are bearings binding?
If the cones have been loosened properly, but you can still feel some binding, the bearings have either dried up, or the grease has become caked. Remove the cones, and bearings, clean the bearings, (some wheels do not use bearing cases, but loose bearings) and repack the bearings as in step A3. Replace the cones and locknuts.
Return to Tire Questions
Grip the wheel, and push it side to side. If there is movement, the cones are too loose. (Note: If the spokes are all very loose, you will get a similar sensation, but the cones are not the problem) Again, loosen the axle nut, loosen the lock nut from the cone, tighten the cone, tighten the lock nut, and tighten the axle nut. Repeat test b5, and b4 until properly tightened.
Return to Tire Questions
If the spokes are not tightened properly, the wheel rim will wobble from side to side. To get the best ride (and to allow hand brakes to work effectively), you need to have the wheel as true as possible. Spin the wheel and use something to mark a fixed difference between the fork and the rim. Before going further, tighten all loose spokes. Pull spokes together in pairs, and any that give should be tightened. Then, try to determine the natural middle of the rotation to mark your difference. As you find the rim tightening against your mark, or leaving a gap between the wheel and your mark, adjust the rim to bring it to the mark. To move the rim away from your mark tighten the nearest spoke on the opposite side, and loosen the nearest spoke on the side of the mark. It is best to make your adjustments on both sides of the rim, and only ¼ turn at a time. Proceed around the rim until all points of the rim barely touch your mark.
Return to Tire Questions
Does the rim rub on the brakes?
True the wheel. If the rim still rubs on the brakes, the brake needs to be adjusted. See the brake section for instructions for this step.
Return to Tire Questions
There should be a white reflector on each of the wheels on bikes with larger than 16” wheels. It is held between the spokes, and is usually secured with a single screw. Any missing or cracked reflectors should be replaced. Insert the new reflector between two spokes and turn so the long edge of the reflector will be parallel to the rim. Slide it up as close to the rim as you can, and tighten the screw to secure it in place. If this screw is not tightened, the reflector could slide down towards the hub, turn sidewise and get caught in the fork, causing the rider to tumble and face possible injury.
Return to Tire Questions
There are four primary types of brakes: Coaster, Side pull, Center pull, and Cantilever (including V brakes). Each type has a myriad of brands and styles, many with slight differences. I will try to explain the most common adjustments that can be made. Coaster brakes are part of the rear wheel, and require no adjustments, so will not be discussed further.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Side pull breaks are most common on older, lower cost bikes, and on BMX bikes. There are also some very fine quality ones found on quality bike shop bikes, so please don’t be mislead by the generalization.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Is the break securely attached to the frame?
There is usually a hole through the fork (where it spreads to the two sides), and in a small metal tube connecting the two seat stays, just above the reaches of the rear tire. The brake has a bolt as part of its makeup that goes through this whole, and is secured with a bolt (usually a lock bolt with plastic interior to avoid loosening). Often there are curved pieces to fit the contour of the fork or support bar with a flat back side to make the tightening bolt tighten flatly against. Do not over tighten, as it will affect the performance of the brake. When tightened, grip the brake along the brake pads. The brake stem (watch the two nuts on front of the brake) should not turn, only the brake arms. The break mechanism should be on the front of the fork for front brakes, and towards the back of the bike for back brakes.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Is the brake tightened properly on the brake stem?
When holding brake along the brake pads, push the pads forward and backward. There should be little or no give. This is tightened with the two little nuts (usually 10mm) on the brake stem. Put a small wrench on both nuts, and loosen the outer nut. Finger tighten the inner nut, and then tighten the outer nut to hold the inner nut position. Repeat this test until properly tightened.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Is the brake properly centered on the wheel?
Sometimes the brake favors one side or the other. You should be able to adjust the brake to give adequate clearance between the brake pads and the wheel rim. Start by closing the brakes a couple of times, allowing them to find their natural position. If adjustment is required, loosen the attachment nut (step a), and twist the entire brake assembly to desired location, and retighten the nut. If they do not hold the new position, check the brake cable and housing along the frame. There needs to be some slack in this cable so the brake will function properly. Try pulling additional cable back along the frame to give it some more slack. If this does not work, the two nuts discussed in step b are probably too tight. Try loosening them slightly. Test again, and repeat the various adjustments until the brake is properly seated.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Does the brake stop the wheel?
The brake cables will stretch with use, weakening the braking power. If left unchecked, the brakes will eventually not be able to stop the bike. There is an adjuster nut where the brake cable housing meets the brake. Tighten this to compensate for the cable stretch until the brake stops the wheel adequately.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
If the brake pads do not grip the wheel evenly, they are “toed”. Put an adjustable wrench on the brake arm just above or below the brake pad, and twist the arm until the pad will evenly press against the wheel.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Do the brakes squeal when applied?
This is usually a sign of being “toed”. If the brakes are not “toed”, the shoes are probably old and brittle, and should be replaced. There is a small 10mm nut holding them onto the brake arm. Remove the nut, replace the brake shoe with a new one, and retighten the nut.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
These are found more on older road bikes. They generally provide a stronger, more consistent braking action than side pull brakes, and are somewhat simpler.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Is the Brake securely attached to the frame?
Center pull brake assemblies attach to the frame in a similar manner as side pull brakes. Assure the brake is centered on the wheel rim leaving a similar amount of space between the rim and each brake shoe.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Does the brake stop the wheel?
There is a similar nut as on the side pull to tighten the brake, it just is not attached to the brake assembly. On the front brakes, it usually is part of the reflector assembly mounted on the top part of the fork. On the rear brakes, it is usually on a part mounted on the seat post binder bolt. On some newer brakes, it is also possible to tighten the brakes by turning the assembly coming out of the brake handle.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
As with side pull brakes, use an adjustable wrench to correct this. Squeaky brakes are again a sign of “toeing” or old and hardened brake shoes.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Cantilever brakes and V brakes
These brakes are the combination of several pieces that attach to the frame separately. This is the class of brakes that has the most variety.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
a. Is the Brake securely attached to the frame?
Each brake shoe mechanism attaches to the frame individually. They attach directly to the fork in the front, and to the seat stays in the back. The tension is provided by a spring inside the assembly that has one end going into a hole near the fixture to screw into, and the other goes into a hole inside the brake shoe assembly. The screw usually requires an allen wrench.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
b. Does the brake stop the wheel?
This is where most of the differences of the various types of brakes occur. Some of the brakes have a wire connecting to each of the brake shoe assemblies that is then connected to the brake cable with a similar attachment as used on center pull brakes. Others us a Y assembly. The brake cable comes into the top of the Y, and travels down one side to the tightening screw (the other side is a fixed cable). This would be used to make major adjustments to the brakes. The third type involves the use of a “noodle,” which goes through a stop hole on one side of the brake assembly, and curves to move the cable across to a tightening screw on the top of the other brake assembly. This is most common on variety of brakes referred to as V brakes. Smaller adjustments can be made by adjusting the brake shoes in some types, or with adjusting screws similar to center pull brakes, or with adjusting screws on the brake handles. To adjust the balance between the two brake shoes and the rim, there is usually a small adjusting screw on one side (and sometimes on both sides), that will move that side either closer, or further from the rim, causing the reverse action on the other side.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Are the brake pads parallel to the wheel?
Toeing is less common on these brakes, but corrected in a similar fashion. It is harder to get a secure grip on the mechanism to twist it. Squeaky brakes again are a sign of toeing, or old and brittle brake shoes that should be replaced.
Return to other Breaks Qustions
Check the bottom bracket
Return to other Breaks Qustions
